
As a small child growing up in Yorkshire I always remember the regular fortnightly trips with my mother to York.
Although they were really shopping trips for mum she always found somewhere interesting to take me on our visits – a museum, church or even a theatre trip or she’d to point out and give me some quick details on some of the city’s historic streets and places and what happened there in the past.
We always travelled the short journey to York by train and more than many of the city’s historic landmarks one place really stuck in my mind on each visit – it was the magnificent building that was then known as The Royal Station Hotel.
This grandiose building really fascinated me and I longed to take a peek inside. The decades rolled on and my career took me literally to the other side of the world and to some wonderful places in-between but on every visit I was still captivated by the hotel.
So when I got the opportunity to stay at there at the very hotel – The Milner as it is known now – that had held such a fascination for me I was over-the-moon.
The Royal Station Hotel as it was first known opened in 1878 and was designed by architect William Peachey of the North Eastern Railway as an integral part of the newly built station to accommodate the aristocracy and wealthy Yorkshire industrialists.
A stunning example of late Victorian architecture as time went on wings were added and ownership changed and significant investments were made and in 2015 the Grade II listed building was restored to its former glory.
In October last year the hotel began a new chapter as The Milner York and large significant investments are still being made.
The new name honours Willim Milner a local hero and York Station foreman during World War 11 who was posthumously awarded the Kings commendation for gallantry.
As we swung into the carpark of The Milner Hotel I felt the dream I had as a little girl had come true. Going through the hallowed portals of the hotel I realised why it is often referred to as The Grande Dame of York. This was like stepping back in time – I felt I should have been getting out of a horse drawn carriage or a 20’s Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost.
My first view of the interior of The Milner took my breath away – this was not a hotel renovated to look old – This was the real thing and a hotel like no other.
Having stayed at and visited many ‘grand hotels’ in various part of the world as a travel writer and author The Milner has all the grandeur and opulence of one. High ceilings, large pillars, marbled and polished floors, a sweeping staircase that one can only dream about, wide corridors and even in the foyer vintage luggage was on display which added to the atmosphere and our two travelling bears just couldn’t resist perching on it.
Our check in was seamless in the spacious marbled reception hall and soon we were on our way to our room the modern way in the lift. But when we reached our floor what I saw astounded me.
I was blown away by the ironwork construction of the main sweeping staircase supported on one side only. It forms three upper galleries and provides a fascinating perspective of the stairwell especially when viewed from above.
This was a staircase I had to walk down every time I left the room and it fuelled my imagination as I thought of those Victorian ladies in their gowns ascending in all their glory for dinner.
But its easy to imagine times passed in this hotel that’s the glory of it. The long wide corridors with heavy oak doors and stained glass windows. I almost imagined meeting a top-hatted cigar smoking aristocratic gentleman or some titled dowager resplendent in her furs with her ladies maid in tow as I explored the hotel.
Our room was a shining example of cool décor furnished in relaxing shades of soft taupe and cream with an incredibly comfortable king size bed and excessively soft seated chairs. It had two wardrobes and a table with an ingenious piece that lifted up with a mirror and a space to put all the girlie cosmetics that usually roll around the dressing table. I also loved the tuck box filled with sweet treats and little things to make our stay more pleasant.
The bathroom had excellent lighting well placed a marble floor and tiles and a large walk in shower plus the washbasin was ideally tucked away in its own surroundings with great mirrors and plenty of room for toiletries. Thick fluffy snow white towels, gowns and slippers completed the bathroom heaven.
After unpacking I decided we would go for a walk and chose to cut through the hotels large garden complete with fountains and benches – but didn’t linger too long there with a temperature of around minus one! That must be a blissful place in summer to sip a glass of bubbly watching the sun go down.
The Milner is just so well located. A quick walk through the gardens and over Lendal Bridge and within 7 minutes you are at the Minster or you may decide to drop off through Museum Gardens and visit the Art Gallery.
Ten minutes and you are in the hub of York’s wonderful shopping area with designer and exclusive independent shops plus high street retailers and quirky and quaint boutiques that sit alongside churches, the market and the historic Shambles. In 15 minutes you can be at one of the two theatres or the many museums and you are sure to be tempted by the many traditional pubs.
After some retail therapy and my ‘tourist guide’ lecture to my London born and bred partner, who travels the world in the course of his job we decided to return to The Milner.
Over a welcome cup of tea The Garden Room was warm and inviting – although we didn’t succumb to their famous chocolate afternoon tea as we were booked in the hotels restaurant for dinner – but maybe next time when my best friend and I visit York for a shopping trip this will be our self indulgent pit-stop.
The Garden Room is an oasis of calm with views of the Minster through its large windows, a high ceiling and pillars and wonderfully decorated cornices. There’s a great choice of seating from velvet covered armchairs in soft greys and blues to chesterfields all with tables to suit.
My partner decided to take advantage of the Leisure Club facilities on the lower ground floor and enjoyed the sauna and steam room plus an invigorating swim.
I decided to stay and soak up the atmosphere of the Garden Room letting my imagination run riot again and imagining Victorian ladies taking tea and exchanging gossip or stylish 20’s young ladies enjoying a sly cocktail and lots of giggles whilst their beaux changed for dinner after an afternoon rowing on the river.
Dinner that night was in Peachy’s Bar and Grill named after William Peachy the architect who designed the hotel. The surroundings couldn’t have been different with industrial lighting, exposed brickwork giving a wonderfully casual and comfortable atmosphere.
We both decided on a starter of homemade thick vegetable soup served with hot homemade bread and farm butter – the perfect winter warmer that was tasty and comforting.
The menu had lots of choices and for main my partner chose the Dry Aged Sirloin Steak which was cooked to perfection just as he requested. It came with mushrooms, vine tomatoes and delicious triple cooked chips that were just as they should be – crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside.
A fish lover I was delighted that my favourite was on the menu a whole grilled lemon sole served with Morecambe Bay shrimps, parsley and capers and a butter sauce that certainly added flavour. My fish was cooked to perfection it was moist and flavoursome and the side salad – which was not on the menu but which I requested was dressed with a tangy dressing
Not a dessert lover my partner was delighted with the Lemon & Lime Tart. The pastry was crispy and served with sesame meringues and lemon sorbet and he demolished it all – quite a rarity and sang its praises all night.
My heaven on a plate was Chocolate Marquise and Pistachio Nougat served with Kirsh cherries and yoghurt ice cream. I can honestly say this was one of the best desserts I have tasted – and as a restaurant reviewer I get to taste many – and the inventor of this combination deserves a medal! The dark chocolate marquise was rich but not overpowering and was balanced by the nougat – but be warned this comes in an exceptionally large portion – so large I took it through to the bar as it took me literally ages to finish.
We ended our evening in The Swollen Gambler, the cosy bar with lots of well choreographed seating and red bar stools for those who wish to perch. The bar draws its name from George Hudson, the railway pioneer whose opulent lifestyle earned him fame, whilst his vision made York a major railway hub in the 1800’s.
Next morning despite our good intentions of a stroll before breakfast we had a leisurely breakfast – which offers a buffet service plus hot breakfasts from the menu. Hotel breakfasts can sometimes be a let down but The Milner’s was a top rate one – a rarity often my poached egg was absolute perfection.
After a stroll through York and the grounds it was time to bid farewell to The Milner after a wonderful stay that more than fulfilled my childhood dreams.
The Milner York, Station Road, York YO24 lAA
01904 653 681 – info@themilneryork.com website: themilneryork.coms
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