Liz Coggins has some professional tips for perfect peepers
Your eyes are your greatest beauty asset. Beautiful eyes can speak for themselves.
Eye care is an important part of any beauty routine so if you want to enhance your look or want some tips to achieve that professional look read on…..
The eye area is the most sensitive and finest part of your skin. The skin around the eye is actually 50% thinner than the rest of your face. Therefore the eye area ages twice as quickly as the rest of your face.
Gentleness therefore is the word to bear in mind when dealing with the eye area.
To start with when cleaning be very gentle, no rubbing, just smooth gliding movements. Apply your eye makeup remover and leave for several seconds that will enable your makeup to be easily removed. Always use a gentle removers such as Clarins Instant Eye Makeup Remover or Clinique’s Naturally Gentle Eye Makeup Remover
Every day. Treat creasing, don’t just hide it. Use an eye treatment cream morning and night to help reduce puffiness, fine lines and dark circles. If your eyes feel tired use an eye mask or cooling eye pads.
Our favourites to reduce puffiness are Clinique’s Pep Start Eye Cream and Benefit’s Puff Off.
To give your eyes tlc we love Neal’s Yard Frankincense Intense Eye Cream , Clarins Total Eye Concentrate, Liz Earle’s Daily Eye Repair, Darphin’s Exquisage Eye Contour Cream and as a treatment Chanel’s Le Lift Eye Concentrate, Estee Lauder’s New Dimension Firm and Fill Eye Sytems.
Back to Basics
To keep your eye shadow from changing colour, disappearing and to give it added drama always use an eye shadow primer. Our favourites are Benefit’s Air Patrol and Mac’s Prep and Prime Base.
Close-set eyes. Focus on the outer limits. Start shadow well away from the eye’s inner corner, blend up and out with increasing colour intensity. Mascara? Lots on the outer lash tips. Apply with away from the nose strokes.
Too-wide-set eyes. Reverse the above procedure. Start darker shadow at the lid’s inner corner. Blend lightly towards the temples. And make sure mascara reaches inside-corner lashes.
Vanishing lids. For lids that disappear when eyes are open, a wide band of shadow in a deep neutral shade lends definition. For the curving lid shape, start darker-toned shadow mid-lid, feathering it out lightly toward brow. It’s a good idea to apply colour with eye open, blend with eye closed.
Short eyelids. Soft-smudge liner near upper lash-line, then sweep deeper neutral shadow from lash to eyebrow. Add highlight on brow bone. And use lots of mascara in a straight up and down direction.
Crinkly lids can occur at any age. To minimise, think matte, not pearl.
Tired-looking eyes? Waken them up with a tiny stroke of blue pencil just beneath the outside edges of the lower lashes to brighten and lift. Blend inward with a cotton tip.
Relaxed skin below the brow bone can be shaded away. Concentrate shadow at lid’s inner corner; extend to the inner/upper hollow, and blend towards the temples.
Circles and Puffs
Banish dark circles with a correcting shade just a bit lighter than your makeup. Use a brush saved specially for this to reach into the tiny corners, because fingertips can take off as much as they put on. Avoid black or dark brown liner. Reach for softer pewter grey and never use mauve or reddish lid tints they will look too much like the colour you want to erase.
Puff deflating. Use a little eye-foolery; shade the puffed area slightly darker. The area just under, a little lighter. And neaten up the area with a little translucent powder.
Ideally, brows extend the full width of your eye makeup, peaking over the pupil’s outside edge. Whether you start or finish your eye makeup at the eyebrows, think “fill in” not “draw in”.
Brush brows straight up. Pluck only stragglers. Fill in sparse brows with pencil. Brush back into place and set with a special eye brow gel. Speed righting brows: Brush brow shaping powder against hair grain to lay in the colour. Then brush brows back into shape. We love Urban Decay’s Gwen Stefan’s Brow Box with eyebrow powder, wax and some nifty little tools.
A hard line creates boundaries, so to speak and closes the eyes in. To open eyes, soften a thin thin line by smudging it with powdered shadow on a cotton tip. To create a really soft lining a wide, dark band of liner worn under eye shadow colour, is intense yet subtle. To get your liner close to your lashes, aim at the lashes themselves. Not at the eyelid skin. Our favourite liners are Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Pencil and Bobbi Brown’s Ink Liner
If your mascara clumps it’s the signal that it is too old. It’s best to replace it after three to six months. And do wipe your brush clean regularly.
Apply one coat of mascara with a sweeping upward action. Wait and then re-apply. A professional trick is to always open your mouth when applying mascara it helps make the lower lashes reachable. We love Smallbox Lashes Without Limits, Estee Lauders Sumptuous Knockout Defining Lift and Fan Mascara.
Apply under eye concealer last – after lower lash liner and mascara.
A professional no-mess trick when applying mascara or the darker shades is to place a tissue directly under the lashes to act as a smudge guard. Or apply lots of loose powder under the eye – then brush away This catches stray flecks and avoids panda circles of colour.
Contact Lenses. Unless they’re extended wear, which stay in all the time, put them on to do makeup,take off before removing it. And always opt for stay-put no flake makeups to keep flecks from falling into the eyes.
Girls who wear glasses. If they magnify, subdue colour. If not, intensify. Either way mirror-check results with and without them on.