Getaway NewcastleGateshead
Ali Schofield takes a cultural Christmas getaway way up north
Getaway: NewcastleGateshead
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Twelve years ago, NewcastleGateshead didn’t exist. Newcastle was represented most ostensibly in the media - at least according to this writer’s formative viewing - by the BBC’s children’s soap about a run-down community centre, ‘Byker Grove’. And Gateshead, well, it was probably mentioned occasionally in ‘Byker Grove’. All that changed when Antony Gormley’s Angel of the North went up in Gateshead in 1998, after which the respective councils started talks to get together as the NewcastleGateshead Initiative (NGI).
Inspired by the subsequent promise of plentiful culture in amongst some necessary Christmas shopping, my partner and I spent a weekend there last month.
As with most Malmaison hotels - indeed, most businesses along the quayside - the Newcastle branch has cleverly transformed an old industrial warehouse. With views of the impressive Gateshead Millennium Bridge, the world’s first tilting bridge, and across to art developments The Sage and Baltic, Malmaison neatly sums up the innovation of NewcastleGateshead and provides a central position for attractions. Of course, this also means guest parking is tricky but the car park behind the hotel charges a reasonable £4 a day on a weekend.
Since we only had a couple of days, we decided to take a Saturday morning walking tour with Blue Badge holder and all-round NewcastleGateshead expert Jan Williams. The two hour tour took in several of Newcastle’s most famous sites - the eponymous castle, St James Park, Earl Grey’s monument - as well as several hidden treasures we would not have discovered on our own, including the exquisite Lit & Phil library and vintage treasure trove Attica. Once acquainted with the city, Jan left us to explore; a last minute ticket purchase for Newcastle United for my partner, shopping for me.
As well as some gorgeous indie boutiques and vintage emporiums just off Grey Street, Newcastle boasts the first ever Fenwick’s, opened in 1882. With several floors offering more than would be reasonable to site in one sentence, the department store is perfect for Christmas shopping, drawing attention with an all-singing, all-dancing window display that seems to have the kids, and quite a few adults, in awe. Eldon Square shopping centre is another huge Newcastle high street staple, the delightful Grainger Market has a Marks & Spencer discount stall with original penny bazaar frontage and, of course, the Metro Centre’s on the way back, just off the A1.
Feet pleasantly aching, we booked in at Cafe 21 for dinner, just five minutes walk from the hotel. Owned by local Michelin recognised chef Terry Laybourne, Cafe 21 is a sleek, friendly restaurant with an impressive vegetarian menu (you need to ask to see it).
We filled the Sunday with cultural pursuits, broken up by a late lunch at entirely vegetarian pub Bob Trollop’s - £16 got us two delicious mains, two desserts and drinks! After spending an obscene amount of time ticking off presents in the Baltic’s expansive gift shop, we wandered toward Newcastle’s hip suburb Jesmond. The walk is hardly scenic, taking in council housing and depots, but we soon stumbled across the Biscuit Factory, an inspiring gallery with a good price range. Set off our original course by signs promising Ouseburn Farm and children’s literary museum Seven Stories, we found ourselves heading for the arty Ouseburn area, punctuated with edgy graffiti, interesting architecture and the coolest warehouse selling ‘refunked junk’ which we wouldn’t have found had we been in the car (though it might have meant we’d get to see Jesmond). We finished our creative foray with a trip to the city’s Tyneside Cinema, an arthouse theatre with a cute diner style cafe attached, and an evening stroll back to the car along the quayside.
With such individual shopping opportunities and cultural experiences alike, a weekend in NewcastleGateshead hardly seemed enough. But then, since it’s only some 80 miles down the A1, I don’t suppose that’s such a problem. ‘Byker Grove’ this certainly ain’t.
www.citybreaks.org.uk, http://www.newcastlegateshead.com, http://www.malmaison.com, walking tours can be organised through Newcastle’s TIC, Central Arcade, 0191 277 8000
Posted on Monday 16th November 2009
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