Food Review Giorgio's Ristorante Italiano

Ali Schofield joins the regulars at Headingley's newest eatery

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A restaurant which hosts regular patrons every week is a rare gem indeed. One which does so having been open just two months must be akin to those proverbial flying pigs and months of Sundays. Giorgio’s Ristorante Italiano opened in February and, as a recent visit from this reviewer highlighted, already has a base of regular customers. My partner and I visited the Headingley eatery on a rainy Sunday evening and were seated near two gentlemen who ordered their ‘usuals’ and talked freely to the staff who confirmed they’d probably be seeing them again next week.

For fans of Headingley’s Olive Tree – and indeed, its Chapel Allerton and Rodley sisters – this may not be so surprising, since Giorgio’s is the newest addition to the reputable, so far Greek local chain; an Italian cousin, if you will. Clean and modern, the décor smacks of espresso bars and diners, with red leather sofas for those waiting to be seated, square tables, white walls and delicate red lighting. Printed A4 sheets indicating where the toilets are and so on betray the newness of the place but, happily the staff do not, quick to seat us and providing prompt service during the meal.

On ordering drinks we are presented with bread and dipping oil while we peruse the menu. All the expected are here – meat and fish specialities, pizza, pasta, gnocchi, risotto - we choose bruschetta with provolone cheese and mushrooms (£4.50) and the antipasto vegetale (£7.25) to start from a comprehensive antipasti selection. Two amply-topped bruschetta arrive boasting various types of mushroom, while the antipasto plate included mozzarella, tomato, rocket, roasted aubergine, courgette, peppers, artichoke and the fattest, tastiest olives I have experienced this side of Tuscany.

For main my partner went for the ubiquitous spinach and ricotta cannelloni fiorentina (£8.95) while I plumped for a rustica pizza (£8.95). The cannelloni was well-filled with a pleasant lemony taste and parsley garnish. Whereas the dish can often be overpoweringly cheesy, here it was much lighter and fresh-tasting, with focus placed on a creamy béchamel sauce and pleasingly restrained melted cheese covering. My pizza was similarly impressive and topped with roasted veg, goat’s cheese, pesto and fresh rocket. All the pizzas and pasta dishes come in below £10 and many have their origin in brackets; my pizza is from Apulia while the cannelloni is an Emilia-Romagnan recipe, if you’re interested.

The desserts, displayed in a cake cabinet toward the back of the restaurant, proved too tempting to pass up, despite our full bellies. We made light work of a gooey chocolate cake and fresh berry cheesecake (both £4.95).

Like the Olive Tree before it, Giorgio’s looks to be gaining a reputation for unfussy, traditional Mediterranean food at reasonable prices. I for one will happily become a regular here, too.

70-72 Otley Road, Far Headingley, LS6 4BA, 0113 278 2030

Posted on Wednesday 28th April 2010

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