Food Review Oracle
The exclusive dockside diner might just be the most prestigious place to be seen in Leeds, but is the food as cool as its customers? Ben Johnson finds out
Food Review: Oracle
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When Oracle first opened, a red carpet adorned the walkways and bridges over the River Aire declaring that Leeds’ most exclusive, VIP venue had finally landed. The smell of Champers and celebrity was enough to overpower even the musk of the Tetley Brewery next door, teasing them almost, saying things like, “move over granddad, there’s a new Leeds in town”. Nay, ‘nu-Leeds’, if you will. Oracle represents the changing face of the city - the social climbers, the soap stars, the designer handbag crowd, the place to be seen, and the people to be seen with.
Well that’s the perception, anyway, but you might not get that if you visit on, say, a sunny lunchtime, where it’s probably one of the best places to eat alfresco on the tables by the river. We visit during that post-work lull when people just can’t wait to get a beer down them and complain about their boss, and it’s a great venue for this too, with its circular motif, wide central bar, huge furniture and ceiling-high windows to see the sun slowly sink away.
Oracle has been here for five years and has been at the cutting edge ever since. Evidence of which comes from the weekend ravers in the upstairs club and the long list of beautiful people who still regularly pay them a visit.
Many of which could probably do with a few more burgers in them, and given Oracle’s reputation as a prime gourmet burger bar, you’d think that the locals would be chomping at the bit. The food here is heavy American-style fare, lots of meat with a Mexican spice and plenty of diner aesthetics. You’ll notice fun-time milkshakes with flavours including Mint Aero and Jaffa Cake (£3.75), not to mention floats (£2.50), which is fizzy drinks with a scoop of ice cream, which look more like a scientific experiment, even if they do taste scrumptious.
Of course, the burgers are fine - certainly enough to trade a reputation on, but a good burger will only take you so far. I order something from their ‘big plates’ list - the Oracle meatloaf (£6.50), which is part of an awesome list of comfort food like spaghetti, curry, chicken and chips, not to mention a dedicated section of Tex Mex - all forming part of a new menu which aims to take the emphasise off the burger. The meatloaf comes with a filling helping of mash and gravy and, bizarrely, a cup of tomato soup. This is lovely and, for the money you pay, a quite substantial amount of food. My partner gets a cheese burger (£6.95), for old time’s sake.
The sides are worth exploring, too, notably their chilli fries (£3.95), with mince, sour cream and chives. And don’t get us started on the glutinous deserts, surely the best of American inventions: brownies, apple pie and cheesecake. You’ll need a winch to get out the door. But what’s the rush, anyway? Here you have comfort on both the menu and in the seats, and once you’ve swallowed the American theme, you should easily remember where you are. You’re in nu-Leeds, remember, and you’re looking good.
Posted on Wednesday 17th February 2010
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