Food Review Ciao Bella
Rebecca Ryder heads to Dock Street to sample Leeds' newest Italian hideaway
Food Review: Ciao Bella
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Ciao Bella, a family-run Italian bar and restaurant, is the newest addition to Brewery Wharf. It doesn’t boast the most overt of locations, tucked away behind The Adelphi on Dock Street. However, it is quite a find, housed in a converted Victorian warehouse with original oak beams, exposed brickwork and wooden floors, brought up-to-date with a stainless steel open bar and modern furniture.
The atmosphere is what you would hope for, with the animated chatter of groups of friends, some celebrating birthdays, yet suitably relaxed so that couples can still enjoy an intimate dining experience. The staff is extremely welcoming and helpful without being invasive; the manager is characteristic of your loveable laid-back Italian gentleman.
All of the staples are available, such as garlic bread (£3.75), spaghetti meatballs (£8.95) and lasagne (£7.95). However, there are more adventurous options such as linguine with cockles, mussels, prawns and calamari (£8.95), veal escalope in white wine, cream and mushroom sauce (£14.95), and duck breast with a rich orange, honey and red wine sauce (£13.95). The Italian red wine we order, D’Istinto Primitivo (£15.95), is both fruity and robust - apricot flavours with spice and cinnamon notes are supported by a finish of rich berry fruits.
To start, I go for baby calamari with tartar sauce and a lemon wedge (£5.95). The portion is generous and I worry that I may struggle later. However, it is not heavy and greasy but light, crispy on the outside and tender in the middle, and not half as chewy as squid can be. My partner has king prawns sautéed with garlic butter, white wine and fresh chilli served with ciabatta bread (£7.95); the prawns are ample and made all the more juicy by the flavoursome sauce, which is begging to be mopped up by the bread.
We don’t have to wait too long for our food, although it is long enough to assure us that it is freshly cooked. We choose from the ‘Taste of Italy’ menu for our mains. I opt for the lamb shank, gently oven cooked and served with roast garlic and savoury cabbage in a red wine reduction (£14.50), while my partner goes with the chargrilled fillet steak topped with dolcelatte cheese and parma ham with a red wine sauce (£18.95). As they come unaccompanied, we order side dishes of homemade fried chips (£2.50) and a selection of fresh vegetables (£2.95).
The lamb is cooked to perfection and breaks easily off the bone, while the succulent bed of red wine-soaked cabbage is well-paired. My partner’s medium-rare steak is done equally well and is truly indulgent with the deliciously salty ham and highly mature cheese. The selection of vegetables is a carefully compiled, fresh-tasting assortment including broccoli, cauliflower, sprouts, carrots, potato slices and courgette. The chips have the welcome textures of the crisp outside and soft potato middle, with the authentic homemade fried taste.
We daren’t refrain from seeing what dessert brings. I decide on the white and dark chocolate mousse (£4.50), which is minimal enough to be enjoyable after the previous fare, but still very tasty, with the rich white chocolate offset well by the bitter dark chocolate. My partner selects the chocolate chip bread and butter pudding with custard (£4.95) from the specials board. Its manageable size allows its richness to be appreciated without inducing queasiness.
The service at Ciao Bella was excellent and we could not find fault with their high-quality cuisine. The setting strikes the ideal balance between stylish and cosy, and with food served from midday this is sure to become a firm favourite with many locals - us included.
Posted on Wednesday 16th December 2009
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